slim19 build guide

Written By Rick Thomas

PREFACE

  I did not make the Loki kit, figure out the modifications on the APW3++, or design the SLIM19. If anything, this guide should be seen as a resource to find what others have already put out, and easily navigate through your first build. All resources are credited, and if I slip up and share something without attribution, please let me know.      

I asked SatStackingPleb if I could put together a guide for the SLIM19, and he agreed. This has been my favorite LOKI build so far (after trying many). This is a perfect build for an intermediate builder or a beginner with some guidance. It recycles last generation’s miners into useful lottery miners or even a steady source of SATS via pool mining. The cost/TH is much lower than some of the other projects that exist, and the ability to use residential power has kept us little guys in the fight while industrial scale mining manufacturers cater to that customer. 

  The only downside is that it still relies on blackbox hardware. Meaning, it isn’t an exact science and resources are scarce for troubleshooting, customer service is non-existent, and the guy that made the equipment is probably openly hostile to your existence. Make sure you have a thorough understanding of what you are getting into before attempting this build. There are a lot of resources for Pleb-mining builders and I will list some to get you started at the end of this guide.

*DISCLAIMER: ANYTHING YOU DO IS ON YOU. SOMETIMES WHEN YOU FA, IT DOES, IN FACT, LEAD TO FO. 

It is possible to hurt yourself or your hardware attempting this build. I have sent one KPRO hashboard to the great beyond by being too complacent and destroyed a couple control boards learning how to solder, not to mention the rolls and rolls of filament I have wasted figuring out how to 3D print the furniture for the chassis. This is the tuition for your advanced degree in Pleb Studies. 

   This guide is meant to be a jumping off point so that we can share data and I can update this guide as needed. I have only built SLIM19-KPROs, so I know what works for a KPRO hashboard. I will supply a form so your data will be included, and if you have a better way of doing something, or an optimization, I will happily revise this guide to encompass your Proof of Work and credit you accordingly.

-m0ntan1

SOURCES

SatStackingPleb: This is the guy that toiled over a hot extruder so you can have simple precise files to print at your leisure.           GITHUB:https://github.com/SatStackingPleb/Slim19

Pivotal Pleb Tech: Here you will find the guides and user manuals for the Loki Kit and the PSU modifications that make these Loki Builds Possible. WEB: https://pivotalpleb.com/pages/file-repo

The Project

Files / Guides for PSU Mods

SHOPPING LIST

BUILD ITEMS

SLIM19-KPRO: *DATA NEEDED FOR OTHER MODELS

  1. S19-KPRO HASHBOARD (BHB56902 OR BHB56903)

  2. CONTROL BOARD AMLOGIC A113D (THE MODEL WITH 2 X SQUARE + 2X RECTANGLE FAN PORTS)

  3. LOKI BOARD (LOKI LITE) + JUMPER CABLE

  4. APW3++ PSU (FROM OLD S9)

  5. ANTMINER CHASSIS (S19)

  6. WILL NEED PSU CABLES FROM PSU. ONE 6 PIN PCIe CONNECTOR (3 YELLOW 3 BLACK)

  7. (2) SC6-6 LUG FOR PCIe CABLE

  8. 16 INCHES OF 4 AWG CABLE (RED) 

  9. 16 INCHES OF 4 AWG CABLE (BLACK)

  10. (4) 4AWG ¼ BATTERY LUGS

  11. Heat Shrink for AWG4 x4

  12. Heat Shrink for PCIe x2

  13. 18 PIN BITMAIN ANTMINER SIGNAL CABLE (HASBOARD CABLE)

  14. M3 BOLTS (EASIEST TO BUY KIT) FAN MOUNT (4) M3x30mm or longer, INSERT (4) M3x12mm or longer, HAT LOCK (2) M3x6mm or longer CONTROL BOARD (1) M3x4mm.

  15. (2) GELIED GALE FORCE FANS, OR NOCTUA FANS. (ENSURE YOU PRINT THE RIGHT Fan housing to correspond to the fans you get)

  16. PAINT (HEAT RESISTANT) *OPTIONAL

  17. PETG CARBON FIBER FILAMENT

  18. 125V POWER CORD (No less than 14AWG) 

TOOLS

  1. Crimping tool: Make sure it is rated for 4AWG

  2. Wire Shear Cutter: 4AWG

  3. Cable Stripper 

  4. Hot Air Rework Station *Optional (you can also use a lighter).

  5. Soldering station hand (Holder) *Optional, but it makes life a bit easier when you aren’t looking for a way to steady the control board while you are desoldering/ soldering. 

  6. Breadboard Jumpers: Dupont Wires 24AWG, 2.54 Male to Female. (I use this instead of the dual jumper that is standard in the Loki Kit). No reason really, but it works fine. 

  7. Solder Flux

  8. Soldering Iron

  9. Screwdriver, HEX KEYS (2.0/2.5 for m3), 3D printing scraper, shears, knife etc.

THE PRINT

PRINT WALKTHROUGH

  1. FILES: You will find the print files in SatStackingPleb’s GitHub for the SLIM19.  https://github.com/SatStackingPleb/Slim19 

  2. Filament: PETG Carbon Fiber (CF) is recommended. PETG might work. PLA will melt into a puddle on the first day you turn your SLIM19 on. It will likely cause a house fire. 

  3. Print Size: SatStackingPleb split the insert into 2 pieces, so you no longer need a 300mm bed to complete this print. In previous iterations the insert was one piece and it was proving difficult for even the larger beds. The File for Printing the Insert is: Slim19-insert-SPLIT-body.STL

  4. Fan Type: Make sure that you print the correct Fan mount for the fans you will be using. The Gelied fans take Slim19-intake-20MM-fans, and the Noctua fans use Slim19-intake-Nocuta

  5. Printer Settings: Standard for PETG CF, NOZZLE TEMP 260, BED TEMP 80. I go 30% for Infill.

Additional Tips that are probably common sense to most

  1. Dehumidify PETG CF, it is especially prone to string out during a print. If you find that there are a lot of fine hairs, then you likely need to figure out how to dehumidify your filament. Even out of the box, I make sure to set PETG CF in the dehumidifier for at least 3-4 hours before I print. 

  2. Adhesion is paramount on larger prints, like the insert. Make sure you are using a glue stick to ensure adhesion and set your bed to warm to 80 for 10 minutes before you start printing. 

  3. Post Print, make sure to clean any glue residue off of the printed item. A lot of people use metal scrapers to clean up their print, and I used to.  It led to a lot of dinged up and gouged prints. I now use a scraper that I printed out with the end of a PETG roll. When it gets dull or worn out I just print another. Take special care to check the guide-rails that are on the side of the insert. Making sure there aren't any burrs or imperfections will make the assembly go smoother.  

Total Print Time: 20ish hrs, Total Material: under 700G, Cost: $16.22 (Using Stock Creality Slicer)(Do not have a favorite brand of Filament)

PREPARING THE CABLE KIT:

4AWG Cables

  1. I usually go with 16+ inches of RED 4AWG, and 16+ inches of Black 4AWG. For a total of 32 inches of 4AWG. The color does not matter, but I am not willing to take any chances of accidentally frying a hashboard because I forget which is hot.

  2. Cut the 4AWG with wire shear cutters and strip off the end with a cable stripper.

  3. Next I will use the Battery Cable Lug Crimping tool to secure the 4AWG-¼ Battery Terminal Connectors.

  4. Put on the heat shrink tubing

  5. I use a Hot Air Rework  Station to secure the shrink tubing around the base of the lug. You can also use a lighter. 

6 PIN PCIe CONNECTOR

This is the connector that goes from the Control Board to the PSU in our build. It has 3 Yellow and 3 Black wires on each lead and a white plastic 6 pin square at the other end.

  1. Remove any shrink tubing on the wire bundle if needed, you may be able to slide it down and utilize it to keep your wiring neat.

  2. Cut off the lug or connector to free the individual wires.  

  3. Isolate the best looking connector available. You might want to give it a quick wipe-down with an alcohol pad.

  4. strip about a half inch of the end of each wire. 

  5. Twist the 3 Yellow and 3 Black together

  6. Put on the lug and crimp it. *They make smaller crimpers, but I just use rusty pliers.

  7. Use the Heat Shrink tubing to secure your wires.

PREPARING THE CHASSIS

S19 BREAKDOWN

Compass Mining did a great breakdown/ setup video where they walk you through how to deconstruct an S19 to its base parts. The production value is pretty stellar, so instead of fumbling through a video myself I will point you to that if you have an S19 that you want to utilize for a LOKI build.  https://youtu.be/-09To8cD3sY

PREPARING THE PSU: APW3++

For this build I am only doing the light mod to 12.5V, I have seen the APW3++ reach levels of 13.6V, and have been told that it can go all the way up to 14V. The guide for both of these mods can be found at https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0710/7362/8440/files/APW3_Voltage_Mod_Guide_Revision_3.pdf

12.5v mod

  • Unscrew the housing on the PSU, don’t lose the screws. They are tiny, so you may want to put them in the lid of the Slim19 print for safekeeping. 

  • Lift the lid and remove the insulating plastic. Do not throw this away, it serves a purpose and must be returned when the housing is closed. 

  • This is when I take off the bundles of PCIe cords because they get in the way. Save these, as well as the screws that hold down the connector lugs, you will use those for your new Cable Kit. **PRO TIP: IF you are afraid that you will forget the orientation of the Hot/Ground wires just remember this video.

“Black Top, Hot Bottom”. Too Easy.

  • Find the Potentiometer. 

How will I ever remember where the Potentiometer is?

It is that Blue thing by Squidward’s nose.

All MODS Discussed in Detail in this PDF

  • THere is an epoxy or coating that is covering a flathead screw on the top left of the potentiometer.  Scrape it off. It is like a hard candy, but you want to get it out of the groove of the screw as well. 

  • Make sure you are in a somewhat quiet place because you are going to need to hear a very faint sound. 

    • Turn the screw counter clockwise. 

    • A lot. 

    • You will have to turn it 20-30 full revolutions before you hear the faintest clicking sound. 

  • Brush out the residue that you scraped off of the potentiometer, return the insulation to the orientation in which you found it, and button back up with your screws before checking your work. 

  • That is it, check with a multi-meter, if for some reason you messed it up. Just try again.

Rick Thomas